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–› Mt. Makalu Expedition 8,446m

Mt. Makalu (8446m)
Is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located 22 km (14 mi) east of Mount Everest. Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid. Rising just north of the higher summit, separated by a narrow saddle, is Chomo Lonzo (7,818m/25,650') a subsidiary peak of Makalu. Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco, after the team's first attempt failed in 1954. Franco and two other climbers' summited the next day. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and NE ridge.

The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team in the spring of 1954. They attempted to reach the top via the SE ridge but were turned back at 7,100 meters by a constant barrage of storms. The first ascent by the SE ridge was made by two climbers from a Japanese expedition on May 23, 1970.

Makalu is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements.


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